The Rest of the Story -- Our Last Two Days in Jerusalem
Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.
The late news commentator Paul Harvey used to tantalize his audience with a "Stay tuned for the REST of the story . . ." Well, this blog is hardly tantalizing, but this trip does have an end, and a happy one at that, but between lack of availability of Internet, then computer, then exhaustion from the trip, etc. I realized I haven't shared our last couple of days in Jerusalem, and so what follows is our next-to-last day.
On Saturday we decided to return to the place where our trip began on Sunday -- to the top of the Mount of Olives. Although we had processed this route on Palm Sunday, most of the shrines and other places of interest were closed, and so we returned for a quieter, more thorough visit on this day. Our first stop was to a site sacred to both Christians and Muslims -- the Mosque / Church of the Ascension. Originally constructed in the year 380 CE as a chapel to commemorate Christ's Ascension, it was expanded by the Crusaders in the early part of the 12th century. The chapel became a Muslim shrine with the conquest of Saladin in the late 12th century, and it remains a mosque today. On the site is a stone said to contain the footprint of Jesus as he ascended into Heaven.
Nearby is the Church of the Pater Noster, built in the time of Constantine near the site thought to be that of Jesus' Ascension but by Crusader times known as the site where Jesus instructed his disciples with the words of the Lord's Prayer. On the site now stands a church and a Carmelite monastery built in the mid-19th century, and excavations begun in the early 20th century have revealed ruins of the earlier Byzantine church. There is a beautiful garden on the site, and it is famous for the tile panels that beautifully portray the Lord's Prayer in some 60 languages.
As we travelled down the steep, narrow and winding streets of the Via Dolorosa, we next arrived at the Dominus Flevit Chapel. The name means "the Lord wept" and is said to mark the approximate place where Jesus wept over the fate of Jerusalem: As he came near and saw the city, he wept over it, saying, ‘If you, even you, had only recognized on this day the things that make for peace! But now they are hidden from your eyes. Indeed, the days will come upon you, when your enemies will set up ramparts around you and surround you, and hem you in on every side. They will crush you to the ground, you and your children within you, and they will not leave within you one stone upon another; because you did not recognize the time of your visitation from God.’ (Luke 19:41-44). I am sure that still Jesus still weeps over the fate of this city. The church was built in the mid-1950s over the site of an earlier 7th century church, which in turn was built around a 5th century monastery. A particularly interesting characteristic is that centered in the view from the large, clear glass window behind the altar is the Dome of the Rock, the principal Muslim holy place in Jerusalem.
Following a visit to the Russian Church of St. Mary Magdalene, which with its gold onion-shaped domes provides one of the most striking features of the panorama from the Old City, we then visited the Church of All Nations, also known as the Church of the Agony because it is built on the location where Jesus is believed to have prayed on the night before his crucifixion. Inside are some beautiful mosaics portraying scenes of Jesus' passion, and its 12 domes are decorated with the coats of arms of the 12 nations that contributed to its construction.
Right across the Via Dolorosa is the Tomb of the Virgin, believed to be the site where the disciples entombed Jesus' mother. One descends a long flight of steps to get to the outside of the building, and then another long flight of steps once inside. Along the way down are said to be tombs of Mary's parents. As with many sites in Jerusalem, this site has had a speckled history, changing hands -- and sometimes religions -- depending upon the identity of the last victorious invaders. Once one reaches the tomb below, one feels enveloped by icons and torches typical of Orthodox holy places, and religious services are still held here for Greek, Coptic, Armenian and other Orthodox Christians. It was dark and quiet, and Debbie and I spent some time here, in part to rest our tired bodies, but increasingly we realized because of the peace and beauty of the place, and the opportunity to reflect on Mary's total giving of herself to the service of God. Interestingly, this is also sacred space for Muslims, because Islamic tradition holds that Muhammad saw a light over the tomb of "his sister Mary" during his night journey to Jerusalem. Outside of the tomb is the Cave of Gethsemane, which tradition holds to be the place of Judas' betrayal of Jesus in the garden.
Having walked downhill, we now crossed the Kidron Valley, which separates the Old City from the Mount of Olives, and passed through the Valley of Jehoshaphat, where the Book of Joel and Jewish custom say the dead will be resurrected on the day of Judgment. Passing several tombs, including the Tomb of Zechariah, we then climbed uphill outside the city walls up toward the Zion Gate to visit the Church of St. Peter Galicantu. Although modern in construction (built in the 1930s and renovated in the 1990s) Debbie and I agreed that it was one of the most beautiful worship spaces we had visited. Looking across the Kidron Valley and the City of David (part of our excursion the next day), the church commemorates the site where Peter is said to have denied Jesus three times. There are two chapels, and the lower one is surrounded by outcroppings of rock from the time of Jesus and from later churches, and indeed there is a stairway and other artifacts that date back to Jesus' time. There are magnificent works of art and a wonderful sculpture that portray various aspects of Peter's life with Jesus and, in particular, his betrayal.
St. Peter's church closed a loop with other sites we had visited on Mount Zion, and so with that, we called it a day, and walked back through the Old City and to St. George's guesthouse to rest. Later that evening, we took a walk over the nearby Al Saladhin Street, a Palestinian commercial district, for what would be our most American meal of the two weeks: broasted chicken and home fries, cole slaw and a coke. At 50 sheckels, it was easily our cheapest dinner.
Tomorrow, I will share with you the mysteries of the City of David, and walking through a 2600 year old tunnel. Have a blessed day! Your brother in Christ, Don+
The late news commentator Paul Harvey used to tantalize his audience with a "Stay tuned for the REST of the story . . ." Well, this blog is hardly tantalizing, but this trip does have an end, and a happy one at that, but between lack of availability of Internet, then computer, then exhaustion from the trip, etc. I realized I haven't shared our last couple of days in Jerusalem, and so what follows is our next-to-last day.
On Saturday we decided to return to the place where our trip began on Sunday -- to the top of the Mount of Olives. Although we had processed this route on Palm Sunday, most of the shrines and other places of interest were closed, and so we returned for a quieter, more thorough visit on this day. Our first stop was to a site sacred to both Christians and Muslims -- the Mosque / Church of the Ascension. Originally constructed in the year 380 CE as a chapel to commemorate Christ's Ascension, it was expanded by the Crusaders in the early part of the 12th century. The chapel became a Muslim shrine with the conquest of Saladin in the late 12th century, and it remains a mosque today. On the site is a stone said to contain the footprint of Jesus as he ascended into Heaven.
Nearby is the Church of the Pater Noster, built in the time of Constantine near the site thought to be that of Jesus' Ascension but by Crusader times known as the site where Jesus instructed his disciples with the words of the Lord's Prayer. On the site now stands a church and a Carmelite monastery built in the mid-19th century, and excavations begun in the early 20th century have revealed ruins of the earlier Byzantine church. There is a beautiful garden on the site, and it is famous for the tile panels that beautifully portray the Lord's Prayer in some 60 languages.
As we travelled down the steep, narrow and winding streets of the Via Dolorosa, we next arrived at the Dominus Flevit Chapel. The name means "the Lord wept" and is said to mark the approximate place where Jesus wept over the fate of Jerusalem: As he came near and saw the city, he wept over it, saying, ‘If you, even you, had only recognized on this day the things that make for peace! But now they are hidden from your eyes. Indeed, the days will come upon you, when your enemies will set up ramparts around you and surround you, and hem you in on every side. They will crush you to the ground, you and your children within you, and they will not leave within you one stone upon another; because you did not recognize the time of your visitation from God.’ (Luke 19:41-44). I am sure that still Jesus still weeps over the fate of this city. The church was built in the mid-1950s over the site of an earlier 7th century church, which in turn was built around a 5th century monastery. A particularly interesting characteristic is that centered in the view from the large, clear glass window behind the altar is the Dome of the Rock, the principal Muslim holy place in Jerusalem.
Following a visit to the Russian Church of St. Mary Magdalene, which with its gold onion-shaped domes provides one of the most striking features of the panorama from the Old City, we then visited the Church of All Nations, also known as the Church of the Agony because it is built on the location where Jesus is believed to have prayed on the night before his crucifixion. Inside are some beautiful mosaics portraying scenes of Jesus' passion, and its 12 domes are decorated with the coats of arms of the 12 nations that contributed to its construction.
Right across the Via Dolorosa is the Tomb of the Virgin, believed to be the site where the disciples entombed Jesus' mother. One descends a long flight of steps to get to the outside of the building, and then another long flight of steps once inside. Along the way down are said to be tombs of Mary's parents. As with many sites in Jerusalem, this site has had a speckled history, changing hands -- and sometimes religions -- depending upon the identity of the last victorious invaders. Once one reaches the tomb below, one feels enveloped by icons and torches typical of Orthodox holy places, and religious services are still held here for Greek, Coptic, Armenian and other Orthodox Christians. It was dark and quiet, and Debbie and I spent some time here, in part to rest our tired bodies, but increasingly we realized because of the peace and beauty of the place, and the opportunity to reflect on Mary's total giving of herself to the service of God. Interestingly, this is also sacred space for Muslims, because Islamic tradition holds that Muhammad saw a light over the tomb of "his sister Mary" during his night journey to Jerusalem. Outside of the tomb is the Cave of Gethsemane, which tradition holds to be the place of Judas' betrayal of Jesus in the garden.
Having walked downhill, we now crossed the Kidron Valley, which separates the Old City from the Mount of Olives, and passed through the Valley of Jehoshaphat, where the Book of Joel and Jewish custom say the dead will be resurrected on the day of Judgment. Passing several tombs, including the Tomb of Zechariah, we then climbed uphill outside the city walls up toward the Zion Gate to visit the Church of St. Peter Galicantu. Although modern in construction (built in the 1930s and renovated in the 1990s) Debbie and I agreed that it was one of the most beautiful worship spaces we had visited. Looking across the Kidron Valley and the City of David (part of our excursion the next day), the church commemorates the site where Peter is said to have denied Jesus three times. There are two chapels, and the lower one is surrounded by outcroppings of rock from the time of Jesus and from later churches, and indeed there is a stairway and other artifacts that date back to Jesus' time. There are magnificent works of art and a wonderful sculpture that portray various aspects of Peter's life with Jesus and, in particular, his betrayal.
St. Peter's church closed a loop with other sites we had visited on Mount Zion, and so with that, we called it a day, and walked back through the Old City and to St. George's guesthouse to rest. Later that evening, we took a walk over the nearby Al Saladhin Street, a Palestinian commercial district, for what would be our most American meal of the two weeks: broasted chicken and home fries, cole slaw and a coke. At 50 sheckels, it was easily our cheapest dinner.
Tomorrow, I will share with you the mysteries of the City of David, and walking through a 2600 year old tunnel. Have a blessed day! Your brother in Christ, Don+
posted by Don+ @ 5:52 PM
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